Around 2000, Levi’s main volume was from the 501 and 505 in heavyweight 14.25 oz denim. The entire fit and fabric range was outdated. The customer was aging, and no under 20 would go near a pair of Levi’s. Business was in decline.
In 2001, I got us in the Skinny game. I introduced the 514, 511, and 510, which are still in the line today. The collection was targeted toward and gained traction with young consumers who were more experimental with their brands, especially denim. This wasn’t just a redesign, it was 100% from scratch. I approached the line from 4 main platforms: fit, construction, fabric, and wash. For fit, we developed a new pattern grade that allowed for a straight/anti-fit shape, but still had ease. I developed a completely new core 5 pocket construction based on craftsmanship, durability, and simplicity. I worked with Cone Mills on a new fabric, XCRL, which was softer and lighter weight. We gave it a green cast that got brighter and richer as it was washed. The wash range used more hand work and wash cycles that gave authentic, premium looks, including 3D shaping. This work led to the development of the Levi’s Capital E Matchstick and brought upgrades to all the core fits. These Skinny jeans continue to outperform the 501 year over year.
